bugsy running on lone rock beach with the airstream and f-150 in the background

One night in Morganton, NC—Thanksgiving Mountains loop

We visited Morganton as part of our Thanksgiving Mountains loop in November 2025.

hiking Shortoff Mountain in Morganton
Linville Gorge from Shortoff Mountain

After leaving my sister’s in Burlington, NC, we drove two hours west to Morganton. Morganton had been on our radar since our second Black Mountain visit in May 2024, when the chef at Pure and Proper recommended we visit Fonta Flora Brewery. Since there was a reasonably-convenient Harvest Host and good hiking nearby, we scheduled a night there on our way into the mountains.

Campground

the Airstream parked next to a livestock field
our campsite next to the livestock field

Through Harvest Hosts, we stayed about 12 minutes from downtown at a small working farm with power and water hookups (for an extra fee), internet, and a dump station. We loved the peace and quiet, and we loved the animals: a big field full of goats, chickens, a cow or two, maybe a few sheeps (I can’t remember), and a giant, shaggy, beautiful Livestock Guardian Dog.

livestock guard dog snoozing after a busy night
LGD old cold after a busy night guarding!

He or she kept a wary eye on us, except for when he/she was out cold in the morning after guarding all night–but he/she was still near–and oriented toward–us as he/she snoozed. Good dog!

We spotted a few RV campgrounds as we drove around Lake James, and if we spend another night in the area we’ll try camping closer to the lake rather than closer to town.

Hiking

Fonta Flora County Park trail sign
Fonta Flora County Park trail map

As soon as we’d set up the trailer, we drove 25 minutes to Fonta Flora County Park to hike four miles through the woods and along Lake James on the Fonta Flora State Trail, which will eventually link Morganton and Asheville. Our hike had a detour due to construction, but overall was an easy, lovely stroll with a couple lake views (we were detoured around the main viewpoint). It’s a very popular area for both hiking and mountain biking.

hiking the Fonta Flora Trail along Lake James
lake view from Fonta Flora State Trail

Lake James is named for the same guy who founded Duke University, and was created by Duke Power (also founded by him) to electrify the region in the 1920s. The filling of the lake consumed part of the farming community of Fonta Flora–hence the name of the brewery and the trail. Nowadays, the lake is a recreation hotspot, but because development is concentrated in just a few areas, it still felt peaceful–although we were visiting after peak boating season… it’s probably a very different vibe in the high season.

overlooking Lake James from Shortoff Mountain hike in Morganton
Lake James from Shortoff Mountain

In the morning, we got a different view of Lake James from above, while hiking Shortoff Mountain in Pisgah National Forest. The climb up wasn’t too difficult, the views at the top of the lake and into Linville Gorge were fabulous, and the trail wasn’t crowded at all. We clocked just under five miles for the hike. The parking area is small, so best to go early if it’s a pretty weekend day.

the Airstream parked at Fonta Flora County Park
the Airstream’s parking spot at FFCP

In the interest of vacating our Harvest Host in a timely manner, and not backtracking on our way west, we dropped the Airstream at Fonta Flora County Park and proceeded a few more minutes down the road to the Shortoff trailhead. The county park parking lot was a ghost town on a chilly weekday morning; not sure I’d recommend trying to maneuver a big trailer there on a busier day, but it worked great for us!

Eating and drinking

the bar at Fonta Flora's Whippoorwill Farm
Fonta Flora’s tasting room at Whippoorwill Farm

Post-hike, we drove along the lake to Fonta Flora Brewery’s Whippoorwill Farm location. It’s a gorgeous venue with a tasting room in a barn overlooking an open picnic/play field, surrounded by a working farm/production facility and mountains and Lake James State Park.

downtown Morganton streetscape at night

In the evening, we headed into downtown Morganton. It’s cute, and already decked out for Christmas, and while we didn’t partake, we were pleased to see signage about the Downtown Morganton Social District–always fun for a tourist!

In town, we hit two breweries and had dinner:

beer at Side Tracked brewing in Morganton
Sidetracked Brewery’s taproom

Sidetracked Brewery, our first stop, has a cozy taproom and actually had two sours on tap–and they were tart, not sweet, my preference. Not sure J loved his beer–or maybe he was just hungry–so we didn’t stay very long.

bento box at The Madness in Morganton
smashburger *and* sushi!

Dinner was at The Madness, chosen by J because they specialize in bento boxes combining smashburgers and sushi. What?? Yes. It’s a great spot and everything we tried was delicious.

beers at the downtown location of Fonta Flora Brewery

And we couldn’t leave without checking out Fonta Flora’s original tasting room, in a beautiful historic building at the edge of downtown. J loved his beer, and I loved the exposed brick and old wood.

our friendly guard dog watching us pack up

Next stop on our journey: Townsend, TN, and Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

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